Tuesday, December 30, 2008

Le Musée d’art et d’histoire du Judaïsme


After eating a full breakfast of goat's cheese (chevre) on toast with yogurt and a hard-boiled egg, I planned on walking North to the Sacre Coeur Basilica in Montmartre but, stepping outside into the miserably cold and rainy Paris day, I decided to venture East to the Centre Pompidou to see some modern art. Although I had been to several museums in a short number of days in London, I felt like I had given them enough of a break to see another. Plus the walk to the Pompidou is considerably shorter than that to the Sacre Coeur (I didn't want to hassle with the Metro today). 

As I approached the Pompidou I really didn't feel like going in and seeing a box in a room with a light flicking on and off and watching people sit on benches looking at the box contemplatively for however long they felt necessary to come off as cultured. So I continued walking, hanging a right toward the Marais district: the historically Jewish quarter of Paris.

On Sunday in Paris, 200 people gathered at the Champs Elysees to protest the air strikes on Gaza from Israel, another estimated 1,300 joined an anti-Israel protest in the Barbes area of the city.

Protest at the Champs Elysees

People told me before I came to Paris to be careful considering I'm a Jew now living in France. Even after the protests this past weekend, I felt safe, even proud, to walk along a street where butchers and patisseries have beautiful French names below which the word "Cacher" is emblazoned. 

Not wanting to get completely wet, I stepped into The Museum of Jewish Art and History, housed in an old French mansion from which several Jews were rounded up during the German occupation of France, thirteen of whom died in the death camps. 

Courtyard of the Museum of Jewish Art and History

Understandably, there was high security to enter the museum, heightening the fact that it was propitious time to visit. The first room you step into explains how many times the Jews were expelled from different countries in Western Europe and how they were recalled (often only to be expelled again a few years later). Throughout the permanent exhibitions there are placards with photos of contemporary French Jews and a short statement of what being Jewish means to them alongside outstanding examples of Jewish artifacts from the beginnings of Jewish history in Europe right through to the present.

While at the British Museum in London, I found some collections interesting or just pleasant to look at but never felt excited by what I saw. Today, looking at a Haggadah from hundreds of years ago, I was moved. I read the words. They were the exact same words that we read every year. Nothing changed. I looked at the hand-drawn images, also there to guide children along the story of Passover just like today. It became clear that the same ideals held by Jewish people today were the same back then, even while being expelled from land to land. Being Jewish is about being a part of a history to be passed on. 

A Sukkah, hundreds of years old

After stepping outside and thinking about the current situation in Israel and the protests that took place right around the corner from where I live, one particular quote from one of the placards inside the museum, written by Abel Rambert, struck me: 

Judaism is like a ball. The harder you hit it, the higher it bounces.

On my way home I decided to see something completely different and stepped inside an old cathedral on a side street in which they were setting up for a concert. It was a beautiful building. They offered me a seat for the show later on. 

The cathedral I stepped into

Monday, December 29, 2008

Ricky: The Movie


This is getting some pretty heavy promotion in Paris. The story? When Katie, an ordinary woman meets Paco, an ordinary man, something magical and miraculous happens: they fall in love. Out of their love comes an extraordinary baby: Ricky.

I don't know if I'm going to sue yet. They did change some of the facts like my parents' names but the rest sounds a little too similar to my real life to be coincidence. 


Back from Londres (that's French for London)

Arriving back from London on Saturday after a week there, I slept for the day and most of the night -- remembering to set my alarm for at least 12:30 so I could make it to Franprix, the one grocery store that stays open on Sundays in Paris.  

My alarm rang at 12:30 but since I live a block away from the Franprix I decided to give myself an extra 10 or so minutes to rest. Done. 

12:50 I got up, washed, dressed and walked to the Franprix. 

FERME

It closed at 1:00 on this particular Sunday. Many stores in Paris make up opening and closing times on an ad-hoc basis, especially if the store is open on a Sunday. So I walked back to my house, taking the long way home and thinking what I could even do that day. Everything was closed so I ambled through this great park near my house on the way home. Let me tell you: even the homeless are classy in Paris! A homeless gentleman was doing his laundry, hanging it to dry on a make-shift drying rack, playing the guitar a little and generally being a classy, classy fellow. He was the King of Hobo Chic, effectively taking Mary-Kate Olsen as his bride. 

Jardin du Forum des Halles

Later that evening I got home and realized I had to make myself some dinner. To my cupboard I went. Pasta. Frosted Flakes. I shuffled over to the fridge hoping for some help. Butter. Milk. Margarine. Orange Juice. Some purple liquid in a tupperware. 

I saw some tomatoes in the bottom drawer and asked my roommate if I could have one. He said he thought they were left by the girl that left a few days ago. Perfect! From what little ingredients I had, I whipped up a pretty tasty dish. I went to bed pleased with myself that night. 

Recipe for Pretty Tasty Dish with Minimal Ingredients: 
(yields 1 serving)

1 tomato
1 tbsp. butter
1/2 cup milk
Paprika (to taste)
Cayenne (to taste)
Dried Oregano (to taste)
1 serving of pasta

Bring a pot of salted water to boil. Place tomato in boiling water for 15 minutes (skin will loosen and peel off before it's ready). Remove tomato and skin, discard skin. Pour pasta in the boiling water used for tomato. 

While pasta boils: Mash steaming tomato in a bowl along with spices and oregano. Place butter in a saucepan on medium-high heat. Pour mashed tomato in melted butter and mix. Slowly pour in milk, continuing to stir. 

Once pasta is boiled, take a spoonful of pasta water and mix in with the sauce, dumping the rest. Immediately pour drained pasta back into a pot, follow with tomato-butter sauce. Mix. Serve. 

Friday, December 19, 2008

Amour

My roommate Erica took me out with her school friends to international night at Mix Club. Everyone gets a sticker of what country they're from. I was Brazilian. 

It was not totally my scene (and it wasn't because it smelled like B.O. and McDonald's Fries) but it was fun. 



Erica and I left and took the bus back to our house. Sitting in front of and facing me was a young French couple, also heading home for the night. Her head rested gingerly on his shoulder with her eyes closed. Then she yakked. All over his coat. He turned to her and kissed her forehead. That was amour. 

Thursday, December 18, 2008

Une and Un

Dear online diary,

This morning I woke up, ate some yogurt and walked out to the Louvre. As I was walking I thought what I might see there and decided I really wasn't all that interested so I kept on walking, crossed over the Pont Neuf bridge and walked toward the Musee D'Orsay. Three of my favourite artists have nice collections housed at the Orsay: Degas, Cassatt and Manet (not to be confused with Monet). 

Lucky for me, there were two really interesting exhibits. One focused on pastel works (with a heavy smattering of Degas in there), another on Picasso's fascination with Manet's Dejeneur Sur L'Herbe. 

You know the painting:

Picasso spent the better part of a year making different paintings and sculptures playing with it. The actual painting is HUGE. I wasn't expecting it to take up a whole wall but, boy, did it ever!

After walking around the museum for around 3 hours I ventured out into the drizzle, back across the bridge and through the tuileries to find myself a croissant. On the way a couple stopped me and asked in an American accent, "excusez moi, monsieur, ou es le Palais Royale?" I responded with "Je ne parle pas Francais." They did not press further. 

I found a croissant at the Monoprix -- the line ups at the patisseries at the time were too long. Monoprix is sort of like Woolworth's in South Africa. They're a department store with everything in it. Clothes, toiletries, kitchenware, food, alcohol. It was really busy and when I finally got to the front of the line I asked in my best French, "Bonjour. Une croissant, si vous plais" to which rapturous laughter ensued. "UNE croissant! Daccord. UNE croissant!" Right. Croissant is a masculine form word.  I said OON instead of EN. Heaven forbid the croissant be termed in the feminine. Hilarious the Monoprix baker seemed to think -- so much so that she called her friend over to discuss the UNE croissant. I smiled but she knew what I was thinking: "If I had a razor blade I'd shove it in the UNE croissant and make you eat it." She handed my "UNE croissant" and I was off. It wasn't even that good, Monoprix. 


Wednesday, December 17, 2008

J'arrivé

I got to the flat I'll be living in for the next two months, unpacked and took a long, tasty nap.


The view from my window onto the quiet side street, Rue du Pelican. Sufficiently less eerie in person.

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Flight Details

My flight leaves today at 5:30 -- I'm trying to slowly immerse myself into French culture by stopping in Montreal first. Then onto Paris.

To follow me all the way there, here are my flight numbers: 
AC436 YYZ-YUL
AC870 YUL-CDG